Home Composting | A Huge Step Towards Zero Waste!
Table of Contents
Why composting at home? Importance & Benefits
How to compost at home? Methods & Guidelines
4 necessary ingredients for home composting
What you can/can’t compost at home
Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)
Cold (or “Passive”) Composting
Discover how to compost to obtain organic matter that is rich in nutrients and supports the growth of garden plants. Your own kitchen and yard waste are all that is required. In this comprehensive composting tutorial, we'll demonstrate both cold composting and quick hot composting and teach you how to prevent common composting issues.
In 2016, cities produced over 2.01 billion tonnes of solid waste, up to 44% of which was made up of food and organic materials, according to the World Bank. Despite the fact that not all of this was generated by families, it is evident that composting may significantly reduce the quantity of the garbage that is disposed of in landfills.
Composting also significantly reduces the environmental effect of our domestic garbage bins by keeping food waste out of landfills. Both carbon dioxide and methane are released during the breakdown of organic material, but the ratio in which these gases are created is dependent upon the environment the material is in at the time of decomposition. This is crucial since methane has around 26 times the global warming potential of carbon dioxide.
What is compost?
Organic waste is transformed into a nutrient-rich soil amendment or mulch by controlled aerobic composting, an oxygen-required process. Compost, a crumbly, black substance with an earthy aroma, is the final result. Materials added to the compost pile are consumed by microorganisms as the pile decomposes. Water is used to digest food, oxygen is used for breathing, and carbon and nitrogen are used for growth and reproduction.
Food leftovers from the kitchen can be composted at home, with woody debris from the yard and dry leaves. Food waste that is disposed of in landfills decomposes anaerobically (without oxygen), which results in the production of a significant amount of methane compared to carbon dioxide. On the other hand, a well-managed home compost pile may prevent both the fossil fuel emissions necessary to transport the garbage to a landfill and the methane emissions connected to the breakdown of food waste. Thus, composting is a fantastic solution to lower the carbon intensity of our kitchens.
Compost can also improve soil issues. The hidden weapon of the gardener is compost if healthy soil is the secret to a productive garden, which it is. Because of its capacity to alter the soil, it has been adorably dubbed the gardener's great equalizer. Are you too sandy in your soil? Sand particles can act as sponges by absorbing water since compost will keep them together. Are you bothered by the soil's hard clay? Clay granules attach to compost, allowing water and nutrients to reach plant roots through new passageways. Compost contributes stuff, including many nutrients, even to wonderfully loamy soil.
Why composting at home? Importance & Benefits
Your garbage will be transported to a landfill if you still need a service for collecting food and/or garden waste. Methane, a dangerous greenhouse gas, is produced when organic waste, such as food and garden waste, decomposes in landfills, adding to the global warming catastrophe.
Part of this organic waste may be composted at home, and as an added bonus, you'll get free fertilizer to keep your garden and plant pots looking lovely.
The process of composting is how nature recycles. One of the most effective things we can do to lessen our garbage, combat climate change, and create healthy soil is this. We can transform our waste streams into useful, value-added soil supplements and utilize them to preserve the environment and build resilient communities by turning our food scraps and yard trash into compost.
There are other advantages for people who plan to utilize their compost in the garden. In the beginning, quality compost makes an excellent fertilizer. What's more, it reduces greenhouse gas emissions related to the manufacture and distribution of artificial fertilizers and stops chemicals from washing into rivers, lakes, and seas.
But even if you don't cultivate your own food or you do not have substantial gardening skills, composting cuts down on the quantity of garbage in landfills and the greenhouse gas emissions that come with it. Moreover, composting returns components to their proper cycles in the natural world, which is a good thing in and of itself! So briefly speaking, home composting is important because:
Composting is a clever method to recycle the food scraps and yard waste you produce at home all year long and manage your trash more responsibly.
You lessen the number of waste items, such as leaves, grass clippings, yard trimmings, and food scraps, that would otherwise be disposed of in landfills or garbage incinerators, and you stop the release of potent greenhouse gasses into the environment.
Composting requires little knowledge, equipment, money, or labor and can even be enjoyable.
Composting, which is cost-free and of good quality, allows you to use less fertilizer and pesticides, saving you money.
Composting may be used to create healthier soil, stop soil erosion, save water, and enhance plant development in your garden and yard.
Where to compost at home?
Stay calm by a sophisticated system like that in community gardens, where organic matter is stored in various containers at varying decomposition levels. The idea that you need a sizeable outside area to practice composting is popular. You may create your own compost on a place as tiny as a patio or balcony.
How to compost at home? Methods & Guidelines
Composting is not only a beneficial, environmentally friendly activity but also remarkably simple. The idea is to not overthink it. There are certain crucial elements to remember when deciding what to add and how to balance food leftovers with garden waste.
Composting at home may be done in a variety of ways:
Composting in the garden using a pile or container you can make or buy.
Composting with worms using a bin is called vermicomposting.
Hot (Active) Composting
Cold (Passive) Composting
If you don't have an outside space for composting, consider signing up for a community-based composting program in your area. These programs may collect your food scraps or provide a place to drop them off. Vermicomposting can furthermore be carried out indoors (more information is below).
4 necessary ingredients for home composting
The Browns: Carbon-rich material such as straw, wood chips, shredded brown cardboard, or dead leaves is referred to as brown matter (or "browns").
The Greens: Green matter. These are things like grass clippings, weeds, manure, or kitchen waste that are high in nitrogen. A carbon-to-nitrogen ratio of around 30:1 is ideal for greens.
Water: Maintaining a consistent moisture level in a pile is crucial if you add a lot of dry leaves or hay. In most cases, rainfall is sufficient to keep it moist, but you might need to sprinkle it with water during a dry summer.
Air: Aerobic microbes, which are present in the air, require oxygen to live. Your garden trash is being transformed by them, and they are the ones doing all the work.
It's important to remember that color isn't always a trustworthy predictor of whether something is green or brown. For instance, even after being spread out and allowed drying, freshly cut grass clippings are still regarded as a "green" element since all they have lost is water, despite their brownish hue. On the other hand, straw is usually referred to as "brown" since it was picked before the primary stems had perished and most of the plant's nitrogen had been converted to protein in the seeds.
The elements in compost break down considerably more quickly if they are chopped up. Thus, chopping up cardboard and shredding woody materials accelerates the process by increasing the surface area exposed to the bacteria that break down organic waste.
The components should always be mixed and never squashed because air is essential to composting. Over the summer, many individuals shift their compost piles numerous times. As long as the pile is not fully compacted, turning the compost helps to hasten the decomposition process but is optional. With time, it will all decay!
What you can/can’t compost at home
The majority of organic materials may be composted. The materials described above, such as shredded newspaper, wood chips, grass clippings, fallen leaves, and vegetable scraps, are examples of what this includes.
Inorganic substances (rock, glass, metal, plastic, etc.) and animal items like bones, fish, meat scraps, dairy products, and oil are things you shouldn't put in your compost pile. (Eggshells are an exception since they decompose quickly and are an excellent source of calcium!) Furthermore, avoid adding pet waste like dog, cat droppings, or cat litter to your compost pile since they could contain parasites or other nasty things that won't decompose entirely.
Briefly speaking:
| What you can compost at home | What you can’t compost at home |
|---|---|
| Nitrogen-Rich Material (“Greens”) | Meat, fish and bones |
| Food and vegetable scraps | Cheese and dairy products |
| Most grass clippings and yard trim | Pet waste and cat litter |
| Coffee grounds and paper filters | Produce stickers |
| Paper tea bags (no staples) | Fats, oils and greases |
| Eggshells (crushed) | Glossy paper |
| Carbon-Rich Materials (“Browns”) | Treated or painted wood |
| Shredded cardboard (no wax coating, tape, or glue) | Aggressive weeds/weeds with seeds |
| Dry leaves | Diseased and pest-infested plants |
| Plant stalks and twigs | Compostable food service ware and compostable bags* |
| Shredded paper (non-glossy, not colored) and shredded brown bags | Cooked food (small amounts are fine) |
| Untreated wood chips | Herbicide treated plants |
| Dryer lint |
Composting in Your Backyard
In general, backyard composting heaps do not become hot enough to disintegrate bags and food service items labeled as biodegradable completely. The purpose of these materials is to be composted in industrial composting facilities.
Steps for Backyard Composting
1. Have a plan for how you'll gather and keep your browns and greens.
Put your leftover fruit and vegetable scraps in a covered container and keep them on the kitchen counter, under the sink, in the refrigerator, or in the freezer. To prevent browns, designate a space outside where you can keep a consistent supply of leaves, twigs, or other carbon-rich materials (to mix with your food scraps).
2. Make room for your compost pile and construct or purchase a bin.
Pick a location in your yard that is convenient year-round and has sufficient drainage for your compost pile. It should not be placed directly against a fence, and a water source should be nearby. In the sun or the shade, your compost pile will decompose. Next, decide on a container type for your pile. Wire, wood, and cinder blocks are just a few materials that may be used to build bins. Barrels and tumblers are examples of enclosed containers for them.
3. Prepare your compostable ingredients.
Cut and split your browns and greens into tiny pieces before adding them to the pile (e.g., corn cobs, broccoli stalks, and other tough food scraps). The materials in a pile will degrade more quickly if you do this.
4. Constructing a compost mound.
A four to a six-inch layer of heavy browns, such as twigs and wood chips, should be the foundation of your pile. This layer will hold back additional liquids, raise your pile, and provide airflow at the base. Your greens and browns will then be layered like lasagna. Add some water if necessary to dampen the pile.
The appropriate mixture of components in your compost pile will provide the microbes that break down organic matter, the carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and moisture they require to transform the material into completed compost.
Add at least two to three times as much brown material (like dried leaves) as green material to your pile (such as food scraps). A four to eight-inch layer of dried leaves or other browns should always be on top of your food leftovers.
The other essential components in your stack are air and water. Turn your compost occasionally, and make sure there is enough brown material to promote air movement. The consistency of your mixed materials should resemble that of a wrung-out sponge in order to preserve moisture in your pile.
5. Keep up with your compost heap.
Your compost pile's temperature will first increase as the materials break down, especially near the core. An adequately kept backyard pile may become as hot as 130 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Pathogens and weed seeds are less likely to be present when it is hot out.
It will aid the decomposition process and aerate the pile if you turn and stir your pile occasionally. To slant the pile's edges inward, use a garden fork.
Monitor your pile's temperature, odor, and moisture levels, and make any necessary modifications.
a: A too-dry pile will experience a slowdown or stop in activity. Turn and wet the pile. Keep the moisture in your pile at a constant level (see the paragraph above).
b: It can be too damp or require more airflow if the pile smells awful. Turn the mound over and add additional browns or dry materials.
c: Greens can be added, and the pile can be turned if it is not heating up.
6. Take your compost out of the ground.
Let your compost pile cure, or finish, for at least four weeks after mixing, when it is no longer heating up, and when no food scraps are visible. The oldest compost at the bottom of the pile can be moved to a different location to cure, or you can stop adding items to the pile altogether. Your pile will be roughly one-third the size it was before curing.
After around three to five months, a well-kept compost mound will be completed and ready for use. A pile may take a year to decay if left alone. The compost will have a fresh earth odor and a black, crumbly, loose appearance. Most, if not all, of the substances added to the compost pile ought to have broken down.
To remove objects like plastic and produce stickers as well as twigs, fruit pits, and eggshells from your completed compost, screen or sift it. (You may use 14-inch hardware cloth to create a handmade screener.) Sifted-out pits, eggshells, and other debris can be re-added to the present pile or added to a new pile.
Avoiding Rodents
Rodents and pests should be removed from properly built and kept compost piles.
While utilizing a bin, it's crucial to strengthen it with a lid and, if possible, a floor. Your container shouldn't have gaps or holes bigger than a quarter inch.
Keep your pile's contents proportionately divided between two to three parts carbon-rich material (browns) and one part nitrogen-rich stuff (greens).
Make sure your mound of food leftovers is covered and buried.
Refrain from including oily, meaty, or dairy things in your pile.
Worm Composting (Vermicomposting)
An additional composting technique you may use at home is worm composting, often known as vermicomposting. It's easy to accomplish inside or out, doesn't take up much room, and uses straightforward, affordable materials. Bedding material, worms, food leftovers, and a container or bin are all required. If your worm bin is kept up correctly, it shouldn't smell bad or draw bugs. Vermicompost, a type of soil amendment, is the result.
Steps for Vermicomposting
1. Purchase or make a worm bin.
Worm bins may be bought, or you can create your own out of untreated wood or plastic storage containers. To block light, the bin should have a tightly fitting lid and be painted dark. If you're using plastic storage containers, drill drainage holes in the bottom and air holes along the upper edges of each bin, close to the lid. Put the container with the holes inside the container with no holes. (Any liquid draining from the top bin will be caught in the bottom bin.)
2. Choose a location for your worm bin.
Your worm bin can be kept either indoors (under a sink, in a closet, or in the basement, for example) or outside in the shade. To keep the bin warm during winter, insulate it with blankets, straw, or other materials if it is outside (e.g., in a garage, carport, porch, deck, or apartment balcony). The ideal temperature for the bin is 59 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit, but if the worms have at least four inches of bedding, they can tolerate temperatures as high as 32 to 95 degrees.
3. Materials for your bin.
Worms: Only seven of the 9,000 different species of earthworms are suitable for vermicomposting. "Red wigglers," also Eisenia fetida, are among the most often utilized. The use of an appropriate species is crucial. Never use worms you could discover outside or buy from a bait store. Start your bin off with one pound (about 1,000 worms). Please find a neighbor with a vermicomposting bin who can offer you some or buy them from a worm breeder.
Bedding: Tear or shred non-glossy newspaper, office paper, cardboard, or dried leaves, then immerse the bedding for ten minutes. Ring it out until it resembles a damp sponge. Please put it in the trash and fluff it up. The damp bedding should nearly completely fill the container before a small amount of soil is added.
Food: The majority of leftover fruits and vegetables, coffee grounds, paper coffee filters, crushed eggshells, paper tea bags (without staples), and broken eggshells may all be fed to your worms. Do not consume citrus fruits, pungent foods like onions and garlic, meat, dairy products, oily meals, bones, or animal feces. To promote quicker decomposition, chop scraps into little pieces before placing them in the trash.
4. Start the compost container and feed the worms.
Worms should be placed on top of the bedding in the bin. Add some food scraps to the bedding's surface once the worms have had a chance to settle in the bin. Always cover food leftovers with two inches of bedding before adding more. It's crucial to add the right amount of items to the bin and cover them. Worms consume nearly a quarter of their body weight per day. You may give them more food since worms breed fast. Prior to adding more, always be sure the leftover food has been consumed.
5. Your vermicompost may be harvested and used.
Vermicompost, also known as worm castings, may be collected from the bottom of your worm bin after three to six months. Vermicompost doesn't require curing and can be utilized right away or put away for later use.
Hot (or “Active”) Composting
Making a hot or active compost pile is the best approach to generating rich garden compost. It is referred to as "hot" and "active" because it may achieve interior temperatures of up to 160°F (71°C) and because it effectively cooks disease-causing organisms and weed seeds to death. The ideal temperature for a hot, active compost pile is around 140°F (60°C). (Achieving the intended result depends on the pile's size, the components, and how they are arranged in layers.)
Use the Right Ratio
At least initially, while creating a hot compost pile, you want to have two to three times as much brown material as green. However, you can add additional greens as the compost cooks.
The largest issue for most gardeners is thus gathering enough brown materials rather than simply dumping tons of greens, leading to a wet, unpleasant mess. For instance, only add a few grass clippings at a time since they will only clump together and get sticky.
On the other hand, be careful not to introduce too much brown stuff all at once. It takes much longer to process your fall leaves if you dump them all in the compost pile. Combine them with simple attributes of fresh, green foods. You may compost each one separately over a year or two to make leaf mold.
When creating your heated compost pile, alternate brown and green debris layers and add a few shovels worth of garden soil to provide those crucial soil bacteria. The pile will become hotter and degrade more quickly with more green stuff in it. Furthermore, heat aids in the destruction of weed seeds and disease spores.
Cold (or “Passive”) Composting
Compared to hot composting, cold composting involves less labor. Using the same components as you would in a heated compost pile, you essentially let a pile of organic material grow up and degrade. The difference is that you need to take the time to manage the greens-to-brown ratio or turn the pile precisely.
Although cold composting involves less work from the gardener, the breakdown takes up to a year!
Making a Cold Compost Pile
Add an organic material pile to it as you find or gather more organic materials to cold compost. Alternate layers of browns and greens if you can, and add a couple of shovelfuls of garden soil as well. Bury cooking leftovers in the middle of the mound keeps curious insects and pest animals away since they will take longer to decompose.
Notice: Steer clear of adding weeds or sick plant debris to a cold compost pile since the pile won't become hot enough to destroy weed seeds and illnesses. (Weeds may sprout in a chilly pile.)
Last but not Least…
Composting is an easy and efficient method to lead a greener lifestyle, and for those who have gardens, it's also a terrific way to make premium plant food for nothing at all! Numerous online helpful sites outline the fundamentals of efficient composting, but for many individuals, the precise advantages of composting and how much of a difference it makes is still a mystery.
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